Clubbing Itinerary

I have a friend; a real soulmate. He lives in Upper Silesia, but he visits Kraków about once a month. And can you imagine, this cool guy has never set foot in Wawel! Awkward. On the other hand, he’s a real pro at Kraków’s pubs and clubs!

I have a friend; a real soulmate. He lives in Upper Silesia, but he visits Kraków about once a month. And can you imagine, this cool guy has never set foot in Wawel! Awkward. On the other hand, he’s a real pro at Kraków’s pubs and clubs!

Kraków is famous for its cellars converted into pubs and clubs. Rumour has it that it has more clubs per square mile than any other city in Europe! Friday and Saturday nights are reputedly the hottest in Poland. The event tourism industry is booming, and places are thronging from dusk till dawn. If there’s anyone who doesn’t like it, it’s the inhabitants of the Old Town – they probably don’t want to have the constant parties on their doorstep.

A unique atmosphere permeates Kraków’s clubs. Some people seem to spend more time out than at their own homes! Regulars become friends with the owners and staff, almost forming extended families. When Prowincja closed six months ago, it even had a wake; there were so many mourners wishing to pay their last respects, they filled a good chunk of Bracka Street. In spite of the smoking restrictions, Dym remains a cult destination. Many regulars aren’t even put off by the changing locations of places such as Drukarnia and Piękny Pies.

Some places rely on a distinctive image: sewing machine tables lining the street outside Singer in the summer season have become part of the Kazimierz landscape. In any case, the climate of the old Jewish quarter seems magical, as though time stands still there. And if you want magic, you must head to the cult Klub Alchemia at Nowy Square. Its legendary décor bewitched the English band Editors – they used it as a location for the video to You Don’t Know Love. But it’s not just history and traditions that lie at the heart of Kazimierz. Fans of clubbing should try the nearby Taawa Music Club, which can fit up to 400 visitors at a time. Don’t forget, though, that it’s a modern high-class establishment, very particular about who it allows in.

If you prefer a more old-skool atmosphere, head back to the Old Town and take a look at Społem. Gadgets dating back to the good/bad days of Communism, the dancefloor is ruled by Helena Vondráčková, and a huge crowd mills in front of the bar. It’s just like going back in time. You can also dance to some hotter beats at the Jazz Rock Café, or experience Saturday night fever at one of the myriad dance clubs that line Szewska Street. Or frolic on the dancefloors of Base, Bomba, Ministerstwo, Coco, Clu, Inblanco or Cień. Anyone who’s been to Prozak knows how addictive it is. Or if you enjoy flamboyant LGBT madness, Cocon Music Club comes highly recommended.  There are also dance events in more unexpected places, such as the basement of the closed Hotel Forum.

Like such unusual places? Kraków’s clubs don’t just mean cellars. Near Forum, during the spring and summer season, there is the Kraków Beach, complete with sand, a swimming pool and a real beach bar. Along the Vistula Boulevards, near Gazowa Street, a beautiful 19th-century Dutch barge is moored, hosting conferences, vernissages, and even intimate theatre events.

The popularity of a given location is often unfathomable, and the most effective method of promotion seems to be through the grapevine. For example, did you find Ambasada Śledzia by accident, or did you hear about it from someone else? Even though there seems to be nothing much of interest there bar the, well, bar, it’s packed throughout the summer; a well-known poet was spotted pondering over some new verses. Lemme whisper something in your ear: recently I’ve been haunted by Literki. After the most recent party, the following items were found: a long grey sweater, a brown sweater, two hats, a scarf, a t-shirt, a black jacket… Must’ve been hot!

Whatever music you like or what kind of clubs you prefer, there’s bound to be a place playing your favourite sounds. Fancy going to a concert? Go right ahead! The biggest events are held in student clubs: Studio, Rotunda, Kwadrat, Żaczek, Zaścianek, Gwarek. There are also major events at Forty Kleparz, Lizard King, Centrala, and the recently renovated rooms at the Łaźnia Nowa Theatre. Fabryka also throws its doors open for special events, allowing visitors to take a peek inside its vast, post-industrial spaces. There’s good, alternative music at clubs Re, Piękny Pies, Rozrywki 3, and Imbir. Fans of musical cruises might want to drop anchor at Tawena Żeglarska Staro Port and Wręga club – every Friday and Saturday they are home to some free sea shanties and mariners’ tales.

And of course Kraków is Poland’s jazz central: its traditions date back to before the Second World War. Nowadays the best place for great free jazz is Alchemia – the club hosts the annual Kraków Jazz Autumn. You can also catch some good jazz at Piec Art, Mile Stone Jazz Club (at Hotel Qubus), Harris Piano Jazz Bar, Coltrane, and Jazz Club u Muniaka (owned by the famous Cracovian jazz saxophonist).

And there are lots of places that are about more than just music. At Magazyn Kultury, founded a year ago at Kolanko No. 6, you can find music, vernissages, book fairs, screenings of 35mm films, and regular poetry slams. Pauza is equally versatile: alongside mini-concerts and photo exhibitions, there’s also Kino 18 that focuses on ambitious films and has special offers for Anglophone visitors. Kawiarnia Naukowa is a haven for anarchists, free-thinkers and all manner of freaks; Café Szafé, Lokator and Massolit Books have strong literary inclinations. Jewish culture is promoted at Cheder Café, which holds a library as well as a gallery. Every Tuesday, Artefakt Café revives the tradition of board games.

Had enough yet? This was just a short section of Kraków’s clubbing trail. It’s a never-ending journey! (Artur Jackowski, "Karnet" monthly)